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Do not miss Jaisalmer, the desert golden city !
Jaisalmer, located in the western part of the Thar Desert on the borders of Rajasthan and Pakistan, appears like a gigantic sand castle.
Perched on a hilltop, the fortified "golden city" houses a collection of palaces, temples and mansions and is one of India's most precious architectural gems.
Most historians place the foundation of the town and the fort around 1156, when Jaisal, head of the Bhatti Rajput clan, decided to move his capital from the vulnerable Lodhruva to this more strategic location.
Thanks to its key position on the Thar Desert caravan routes linking Delhi and Gujarat to Central Asia and the Middle East, Jaisalmer flourished. Camel caravans traded spices, silks, stallions and slaves.
While successive maharawals imposed tolls, wealthy merchants built sumptuous residences carved in the region's characteristic golden sandstone.
When you arrive by road, the massive fortress rising out of the desert suddenly appears on the horizon, offering an unforgettable sight. Its charm remains intact as you approach its ramparts and bastions and wander through its labyrinthine lanes and bustling bazaars. Palaces, Jain temples and merchants' houses abound. Finely sculpted blond sandstone buildings contrast with the robustness of the citadel. Balconies, doorways and facades are adorned with delicate moldings and bas-reliefs, revealing geometric and organic motifs featuring flowers, peacocks, elephants and many other figures. Even today, and since more than eight centuries, local sculptors have guarded the secrets of this very special art.
The haveli, the sumptuous homes of wealthy merchants, best illustrate this unique artistic tradition. Lined up along narrow lanes, they are arranged around inner courtyards, offering architecture perfectly adapted to the arid climate, which can reach 50°C in summer. Among the most remarkable, Salim Singh ki Haveli and Nathmal ki Haveli were the residences of the maharawals' prime ministers. Another residence, Kothari's Patwaon-Ki-Haveli, open to the public, is a complex of five 19th-century buildings belonging to a wealthy merchant. Today, the fortress of Jaisalmer remains a maze of lively pedestrian lanes. Here, craft stalls, restaurants, street artists, residences, boutiques, temples and palaces mingle. Its ramparts shelter a thriving city, home to two thousand people. It is one of the few remaining inhabited forts in the world. Listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2013, this architectural gem is a silent witness to a bygone era. But the "Sonar Kila" (Golden Fort), as it is known, has been showing signs of decay in recent years. Heavy tourist traffic and water erosion could be taking their toll on its foundations. The conservation and preservation work undertaken since the second half of the 90s plays an essential role in the daily life of the fort's inhabitants and the survival of this medieval marvel.
A trip to Jaisalmer is a guaranteed change of scenery
Jaisalmer is a place that seems to have sprung straight from the imagination or the Tales of the Thousand and One Nights. No other place in India can match the unique charm of this enchanting “golden city”.
We recommend at least a full day to discover and visit Jaisalmer, a very popular tourist destination today. As well as the must-see havelis, the visit will include other sights, such as the Jain temples, the Gadi Sagar reservoir and the Bada Bagh cenotaphs on the outskirts of the city.
The best time to visit Jaisalmer is between October and March, although December and January can be cold. May and June are extremely hot (45°C and above). However, July, August and September can be a good choice when the monsoon rains turn the desert green again.
What we think are
the unmissable sites to visit of Jaisalmer
JAISALMER FORT
Built in the 12th century, it crowns the hill of Trikuta at a height of 80 metres. The site of many battles between the Bhattis, the Mughals of Delhi and the Rathores of Jodhpur, it is protected by three successive walls and 99 bastions.
This lively fort is fascinating: full of houses, temples and shops, it is embellished by narrow, winding streets, all paved with stone. Everything is quiet here: there are no vehicles, and even building materials have to be transported by camel.
The outer ramparts offer superb views of the old town and the surrounding desert. A stroll along the ramparts is a popular activity at sunset.
JAISALMER HAVELIS
Jaisalmer has several havelis built by wealthy merchants, some of which are still in excellent condition. Here are two of them.
Patwon-ki-Haveli, the most elaborate and magnificent, stands in a narrow alleyway. It was built between 1800 and 1860 by five Jain brothers who made their fortune in the jewellery and brocade trade. The remains of frescoes in vibrant reds and golds are our favourites.
Salim Singh-ki-Haveli was built around 400 years ago for a prime minister. Its roof is arched with superb supports carved in the shape of peacocks. Stone elephants, traditionally erected in front of the prime minister's house, guard the mansion built without mortar or cement but with tongue-and-groove joints.
Patwon-ki-Haveli
Open to the public from 9 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. - Adult rate Rs 300.
GADI SAGAR
This is a reservoir located to the south of the city walls, which was once used to supply the city with water. Given its major importance in supplying precious water, it is surrounded by small temples and shrines. The reservoir was built in 1367 by Maharaja Gadsi Singh, taking advantage of a natural slope that was already holding back some water.
Today, people come here to stroll at sunset, either on foot or by boat. Very popular with Indians, the lake is renowned for the catfish that swarm here and jump out of the water, mouths wide open, if you throw them a loaf of bread.
Access is free.
BADA BAGH CENOTAPHS
On the northern edge of the city, the 120 stone monuments of ‘Bada Bagh’ (‘Great Garden’) are the remains of a bygone era that pay tribute to the royalty of Rajasthan. Perched on a hill, the site is a collection of royal cenotaphs or chattris of the former rulers of Jaisalmer. The yellow sandstone cenotaphs, the first of which dates back to the 16th century and the last to 1947, are arranged in rows and each tells a story.
The shape of the domes reveals the origin of the sculptors: pyramid-shaped for the Muslims and round for the Hindus. The bases are square or hexagonal, with smaller monuments for women and larger ones for kings, adorned with detailed sculptures.
The site offers a breathtaking view of the horizon and the ever-expanding desert. Every evening, the empty tombs are bathed in an orange glow as the sun begins to set in the background. A perfect place to end your visit to the City of Gold.
Bada Bagh cenotaphs
Open to the public from 9 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. - Adult rate Rs 300.